Indonesia

Indonesia is our first stop that was not planned or even thought of! Philipp and Saskia (the two we met in Tokyo) talked us into it and we liked the idea. In Indonesia we had time to focus on a physical activity we hadn’t been doing in a long time: Surfing and Hiking!

Yogyakarta (27.09.-01.10.2019)

Our last stop in Indonesia is the city of Yogyakarta, which is located in the center of Java. In advance we often heard that it is a city with a similar character to Berlin – so we are curious. After a very long bus ride we arrive at night and fall exhausted into the bed of our comfortable 5er Dorms, which resembles rather a tree house.

Similar to a tree house is also the soundproofing – we notice this especially during the call to the morning prayer. As usual, a mosque is only a few meters away from our accommodation…

The last days we have in Indonesia we spend relaxed – either eating or exploring the region.

Soto at the street stand – Soto is a rice and noodle soup

In the south of the city is the popular beach Parangtritis. There many Indonesians from the region come to hang out. Since the region is predominantly Muslim, the ladies are of course all veiled.

The view to the long stretched beach – despite strong waves we have not seen any surfers

We continued with the scooter to the north and past several vantage points.

We have seen many cashew fruits along the way

The Indonesians are already prepared for the onslaught of tourists from home and abroad.

On the way back to the accommodation the scooter driver is suddenly made more difficult, because we have a flat tire. Of course it’s perfect that it’s Sunday evening and the otherwise so numerous scooter workshops misteriously disappeared. After about 2 km of exhausting pushing we find, however, with the help of Saskia and Philipp a workshop and have the damage repaired. We expect a high sum, however, on the question how much it costs the mechanic answers quite dryly „30,000 Rupiahs“ – 2 euros. We then gave him 50,000 Rupiahs.

In Yogyakarta itself, we only wandered a little. Therefore a few humble impressions:

A typical stand where petrol is sold for scooters

Many masks were sold, but unfortunately we could not find out what it is all about.

A general demonstration against the government course and harsh punishments. An ironic thank you to the police was chanted.

In Yogyakarta there is a lot of street art – such as this little impressed boy

The confusing thing about the city is mainly that there are very many spellings of the name. In the conversation the city name is abbreviated – Yogya . We got to know the following spellings: Yogyakarta, Jogjakarta, Yogjakarta, Jogyakarta, Djogdjakrta, Djogjakarta,…

Then we have to pack our backpacks and leave the country, because our tourist permit is about to expire. The next stop is Singapore!

Bromo (25.-27.09.2019)

Our way to Bromo includes our first train ride in Indonesia. Unfortunately it was not so easy to book a train and therefore we stood at the station in Banyuwangi at 4:45 a.m. to arrive in Probolinggo after 4.5 hours. The journey is punctual and also quite comfortable. For the first time in a long time we meet a young married couple and communicate with GoogleTranslate. Of course, the classic question also comes up again: Why aren’t you married yet? We almost missed that question.

In Probolinggo there are many scams related to Bromo. Without knowing about these scams, we have gathered so much travel experience that we do not step into any cases. From the train station we take a rickety taxi bus (Angkot) to the bus terminal. There we have to wait until 15 people come together for the bus to start. We bridge the time with the worst Nasi Goreng that we ever had in our time in Indonesia..

With only one bus breakdown we manage the serpentine route to our accommodation a little outside the tourist hotspot Cemoro Lawang.

Our packed bus – here at one of the numerous stops, until we had to change the bus at the end.

From our accommodation there are 4 km to the actual starting point of our hike. Since these 4 km also contain 500 HM, we consider renting a scooter to get there. But this proves to be difficult – in our village and also in the surrounding areas (which we explored by hitchhikers) there are absolutely no scooters to rent. After shaking off a particularly persistent motorbike taxi driver (Ojek) and meeting Saskia and Philipp again, we decide for the environmentally friendly but exhausting alternative – the next day we leave at 1 o’clock in the morning and run the route completely.

So the four of us start the hike in the dark. Armed with headlamps, we first make our way to our actual starting point. We have chosen the way in such a way that one can unrun the completely exorbitant entrance fee for the national park – one does not have to have a guilty conscience. At night, you can see an army of jeeps driving through the crater to get to the popular viewpoints. The income for the park should be safe.

After 3:15 h we arrive at King Kong Hill. Of course we are not the only ones, but we can get a perfect place. On the opposite side you can see small forest fires and so we wait for the first contours in the darkness – until the sun finally rises!

The first view of the grandiose volcanic landscape

Meanwhile, in the peripheral field of vision, the sun pushes out further and further behind the clouds and warms more and more.

Of course, this moment must be celebrated properly! That works pretty much alright with a Bintang.

We stay almost 2 hours at the view point until we are almost the last hikers upstairs. But we still have a long way to go. Our way leads us through a barren forest, along the edge of the caldera, through the sea of sand up to the crater of Bromos.

Again, because the view was simply too amazing!

The path then went through the plain, which can be seen in the background, to the crater of Bromos. We tested one of our apps again, because you have 4G+ reception in the whole park. This can name the surrounding mountains with the camera and GPS and indicate the distance to the air line.

Progress by technology – did work alright

The sand sea is dusty – probably one of the dustiest places we have ever been to.

Diana’s trouser legs show how dusty it really was

To the right is Gunung Batok, the flat crater to the left of it is Bromo

After a short break at a Warung, which you can see in the picture already in the distance, we continue our way. Most of the jeep tourists are already gone and so there are only a few people at the crater rim. Over a dusty staircase we go up.

Even though Bromo looks the least ideal-typical, it has a very impressive crater.

Bromo is still active – at the beginning of the year it was on the verge of eruption.

The way back also leads again through the sandy sea and up to the caldera. Actually we wanted to hitchhike from there, but unfortunately there was no traffic at all. So we decided to hike the last 4 km again, like in the night. After 28 km we arrive exhausted at the homestay – and above all dirty.

Ijen (23.-25.09.2019)

Our time in Bali passed in Medewi. At the main road we stopped a Bemo, negotiated an acceptable price and drove to the ferry port to Gilimanuk. The ferry, which crosses the 5 km distance between Bali and Java for a price of 6.500 Rupiah (approx. 40 ct), was almost empty and in beautiful sunshine the first views of the volcanic silhouette of Java were offered.

The volcano Merapi immediately catches the eye

Our destination is Banyuwangi. The place is situated at the foot of a volcanic complex, where one volcano stands out – Ijen.

Our homestay is run by Firman. Since the starting point of the hike is very remote and the hike starts at 2 am in the morning, he organizes a tour for us. Gas masks are included.

After we had strengthened ourselves in a small warung and slept a little before, it started at midnight. Like at Fuji we were not the only hikers at the parking lot. About 300 people walk up to the crater rim every night and then walk down again – directly into the crater. The Ijen last erupted in 1999. Since then a crater lake has formed which is not only turquoise but also the most acid lake on earth. But the view of the lake is better from the crater rim. All hikers have another destination at the bottom of the crater: the Blue Fire of Ijen. The closer you get to the crater rim, the more important the gas mask becomes. The smell of sulphur is strong and occasionally takes your breath away. Sulphur is mined in the crater. The workers walk with sandals and without gas masks up and down the crater to recover the solidified sulfur. About 70 kg per walk are carried on the shoulders.

At these points the gaseous sulphur exits the surface and ignites on liquid (but very hot) sulphur. The blue flames show the high temperature. The spectacle is of course especially present at night when it is dark. After we had enjoyed the view into the flames, we went back to the crater rim with our gas masks.

Sulphur is an important source of income. The workers earn relatively more money, but sacrifice many of their life years for it.

In such baskets the pieces of sulphur are carried to the crater rim.

But the first light at the crater rim is a great view!

Also the descent allowed beautiful views:

Tired we arrived back at homestay and had to catch up on our sleep.

Medewi (18.-23.09.2019)

Our journey to Medewi begins without us knowing. Our destination is Lovina in the north of Bali. With the ferry it goes in Lembongan over the crystal clear water back to Bali. There we take a short taxi to the bus terminal, where we change to a Bemo that will take us over the Balinese highlands to Lovina. Bemos are small buses, which are either close or close to decay and therefore one of the cheapest means of transport on Bali (but also in the rest of Indonesia).

As soon as the price negotiations were concluded, we started. At least sometime when the driver wanted to start. We couldn’t really understand why exactly – the Bemo wasn’t even full yet. 4 h later we covered the 75 km successfully. But when we arrived in Lovina we were semi satisfied. The place does not meet our expectations at all of a small relaxed coastal town and the rise of the tourism figures on Bali shows here his unpleasant face. Since the north is still quite little visited, we try to milk out every tourist as far as possible. At every corner one is addressed – tour, accommodation, food, accommodation, tour,… The whole atmosphere is not right and expensive. We watch the sunset and decide to leave the next day. Therefore we have chosen a small homestay in Medewi. And we shouldn’t regret this decision either.

At least the view from our hostel was alright

The drive to Medewi leads us through an untouristic part of the Balinese highlands. Rice fields line up after rice fields.

After 2.5 h drive we have also managed this 60 km long distance. Medewi is a small town with a well known surfbreak, but it only sees a few tourists. Our homestay is situated between the rice fields, which unfortunately were dry at the moment. But it doesn’t matter, because the direct sea view was great.

Our host Ali is an excellent surfer and surf instructor. We had already taken surf lessons in Canggu once, but Ali improved our skills so much that we wondered if we had learned to surf in Canggu at all. Not only how to stand correctly and which posture is correct Ali could explain to us, but also how to better read and assess the waves and how to paddle saving energy.

So our days in Medewi were mainly structured as follows: In the morning we had to get up early to jump into the waves and improve our surf skills. Afterwards we had a relaxed breakfast with Ali and his wife (fruit and banana pancakes). After a relaxing phase and lunch we went back to the sea to surf in the sunset. Here are some impressions:

After a successfull afternoon session during sunset

Compared to the south of Bali, Medewi is more strongly influenced by Islam – about 30% of the population there are Muslims. These people mainly live on the big streets and by the sea, where demons live in Hinduism. While surfing you can often see the big mosque of Medewi.

The black volcanic beach of Medewi. In the background, the mosque towers above the palm trees.

For the next days: Off to the board! Even Diana’s knot burst and she could finally enjoy the time in the water. Unfortunately we only took pictures of Lucas on the board.

On the way from and to our accommodation we often had to share the way with cows that were actually very photogenic.

But the best was always the way to the beach:

So we made the most of our time in Medewi. After five days we had to pack our things again and leave Bali. Off to Java!

Nusa Lembongan (09.-17.09.2019)

After we have strengthened ourselves in our favourite Warung, we take a taxi through the slow-moving traffic of Denpasar to the beach port of Sanur. The name says it all: you walk on the beach, through the water onto the boat. A little wet we sit a little later, after some initial hectic in the ferry. After about 30 minutes of big surprise because of the route, Philipp confirms our suspicion – we just pass our destination Nusa Lembongan. Although the island looks beautiful in passing, the annoyance is big, because the hectic salesman in Sanur has guided us into the wrong boat and we now have to buy a new ticket from Nusa Penida to Nusa Lembongan. With a little negotiation skill we get a little of the fare refunded and arrive with delay but satisfied in Nusa Lembongan.

Spectacular volcanic views of Bali’s highest volcano – Mount Agung with 3.031 m

After we have moved into our accommodations near the sea, we still go to the beach to see the sunset.

One or the other boat of a diving school or snorkeling tour in the water swings romantically.

Like many other tourists, we rent a scooter for one day and heat over Lembongan and the neighbouring island Ceningan. Our route takes us past many picturesque places. The first stop is Paradise Point!

View over the north of Lembongan. In the background the volcano Agung rises on Bali.

In order to get to Ceningan, one has to cross a small, narrow, yellow bridge that partly only offers space for one vehicle.

In this case it was that with the place, but two scooters already pass each other.

Next we head for a lagoon. This one is called Blue Lagoon and the name is obvious:

The colouring comes from the sand particles whirled up in the water.

Back on Lembongan, our last stop of the day is Devil’s Tears. There the waves hit the small cliffs of the island with full force. The bigger the wave, the more spectacular it looks.

In the evening we can marvel again at the usual deep red to orange sunset.

On the horizon you can see the silhouette of Bali

The next day we go snorkelling for the first time in front of Lembongan and Nusa Penida. The first point is the overcrowded cliff where manta rays often cavort. These friendly and actually harmless sea dwellers are huge, especially when they swim half a meter under you. We see several specimens and are impressed by their size and elegance. Unfortunately snorkeling is a very popular attraction and so you have to fight your way to the front row. The glances were worth it anyway! The tour ended after a less spectacular stop in Crystal Bay at Mangrove Point. Lembongan has a rather dense mangrove forest in the north and the snorkel boats stopped in front of this forest to have a closer look at the many colorful fish and corals.

Back on the mainland we were all a bit tired (Philipp and Saskia were still travelling with us) and after lunch we went to chill out in the separate accommodations. But not for long, because after 5 minutes Lucas mobile phone rang with a message with two words: Cockfight, come!

Of course we had already heard a lot about cock fights and of course we are a little averse at first. Nevertheless curiosity won on this day and so Lucas, who had not fallen asleep yet, went towards the cockfight arena. In Indonesia cock fights are something everyday but nevertheless legally seen forbidden. This is not due to the „tradition“ itself, but to the associated gambling. However, a police patrol from Bali comes to the island of Lembongan only once a month to see if everything is okay.

A cockfight starts with a selection procedure. Many men with cocks sit in the middle of the arena and are sorted out piece by piece until two suitable (as big as possible and irritated to aggressive) have been selected.

Strained glances in the selection process

Once the matching cocks have been found, they are presented and equipped with a blade on each leg. While these are being fixed, the betting process begins. Suddenly it gets very loud and everyone calls something that we could not understand.

Critical looks for one of the selected cocks

This gentleman bets 200,000 rupiahs on one of the two cocks. That’s the equivalent of about 13 Euro

While it’s noisy with all the competition, the blades are fastened in peace and quiet.

Once all the preparations have been made, the cocks in the middle of the arena are made aggressive. To do this, their owners hold them close to each other and gently strike them in the back of the neck.

As if by an invisible signal, it becomes silent and the two opponents disperse. The cocks are released from each other.

After a few seconds the fight is over. You see blood in the sand and the cocks are pulled apart. The fight ends as soon as a cock is so badly injured that it can no longer stand or is already dead.

This tradition may seem very brutal, but at the same time it is also everyday life. After all, the inferior cocks are almost immediately processed into meals.

With Saskia and Philipp Diana went by boat to two dive sites north of Nusa Penida. With good visibility we could observe many colorful fishes as well as nibbling turtles on corals on the coral-covered slope of the drift dive.

Diana and Saskia at the beginning of their diving tour

Diana, Saskia and Philipp during their first dive

We will use the coming days for regeneration. Therefore some unsorted pictures of Lembongan.

The „main street“ – of course always with volcano view

Children on the beach with a kite- in the evening we counted over 80 kites in the sky.

A fisherman in the sunset – the prey were mainly smaller fish that got lost in the ebb tide in the shallow reef area.

One of the many free-roaming dogs at „work“ – he had discovered a crab and of course had to dig it up

Although the strays are only semi-popular with the local residents, they often look very healthy and well-kept.

With a last look at the volcano in the setting sun, we say goodbye to Nusa Lembongan and start our way to the north of Bali the next day.

Canggu (03.-09.09.2019)

The decision to fly to Indonesia was made quite spontaneously. After we had met the two Leipziger Saskia and Philipp in Tokyo, these had to come us quasi unvoiced to Indonesia. Arrived at the airport in Denpasar, the two of them already wave to us with a local specialty: Bintang beer!

Our first stop on Bali is called Canggu. What was a small fishing village just a few years ago has developed into a surf hotspot. Nevertheless you can still find some Warungs (Indonesian for small shops) or street stalls offering Bakso (soup with tofu, glass noodles, egg, cabbage) for little money.

In the first days we recover a lot from the efforts of the previous trip and always go surfing in the morning to improve our skills – and give ourselves the most severe sunburn of our lives. Too bad that we only noticed late that our sun cream is not waterproof.

Unfortunately these weren’t our boards, we are not so advanced yet.!

At Old Man’s Beach surf schools line up one after the other. But this one has especially impressed us. This could have been due to the small, funny four-legged friend who guards the surfboards – or at least pretends to!

After water sports during the day, the evening is often about sunsets!

But we also want to dare a little cultural approchement and have a look at a quite famous temple called Tanah Lot. As so often, other tourists had the same idea.

Bali is the only part of Indonesia that is not predominantly Muslim but Hindu. Therefore, there are small gift baskets everywhere on the streets, which are often kicked around by careless tourists.

The sunset does not only trigger the awakening of a very big bat-flight, but also a deep-red coloring of the sky.

In Indonesia it is quite common to take a motorbike taxi (Ojek) to get from A to B. After the breakneck rides with short overtaking manoeuvres, we are happy to have arrived every time to enjoy more sunsets.

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